(Originally posted at Restoration House Interiors)
If you’re unfamiliar with Annie Sloan products, you can get started here, here or here. There’s plenty to read, but I hope you find your way back here again!
Applying dark wax over chalk paint is one of my favorite techniques, but it can also cause the most grief. Applied correctly, dark wax can add a subtle or dramatic antique look to painted furniture, especially on heavily embellished or textured pieces. Done incorrectly, it can streak, leave an oily residue, and be impossible to remove. With a few quick tips, though, that won’t be a problem. 
Let’s start the tutorial, shall we?
Things You’ll Need
Annie Sloan clear wax
Annie Sloan dark wax (or similar product like Fiddes & Sons)
Two wax brushes
Soft rag
Below you’ll see two kinds of wax, two wax brushes, and a very dirty mason jar. The can labeled “soft wax” is Annie Sloan brand clear wax. The green can above it is Fiddes & Sons wax in rugger brown. (Fiddes & Sons is another British company, and I use their dark wax interchangeably with Annie Sloan’s.) The two brushes are round brushes designed specifically for Annie Sloan wax. They have stiff bristles that spread the wax easily. If you have the chance to buy one (or two), DO IT. They are worth every penny! (All $35 worth of them.)
Ideally, you’ll have two wax brushes, but in a pinch you can substitute one of them with a soft cloth.
The first and most important step in applying dark wax is applying the CLEAR wax first.
Let me repeat.
Apply a coat of clear wax anywhere and everywhere you will apply the dark wax! It acts as a barrier between the paint and the dark wax. If you apply the dark wax directly to the paint, there’s no going back. It can go on too thick or streak, among other problems. Believe me. I’ve skipped this step before and it ain’t pretty.
You can read my full tutorial on applying the clear wax here. For now, though, we’ll run through just a few quick steps.
First, scoop some clear wax into a small bowl or container. I use glass custard cups, but you can use anything that’s shallow enough for the brush. (This step will be more important later on.)
This is how the clear wax looks on your brush.
This is how it looks when you apply clear wax with your left hand and try to take a picture with your right. You get the idea. Apply the clear wax, people!
After you’ve applied the clear wax, scoop some dark wax into another bowl. You should now have one container of clear wax, one of the dark, which kinda looks like dog poo.
Ignore me. I’m a third-grader.
First dip your brush in the clear wax.
Then put it directly into the dark.
You can’t see the clear wax as well in this picture, but it’s very important that you always have clear wax on the brush in addition to the dark. It blends onto the paint so much better this way. That’s also why you need to scoop the clear wax into a separate container. You need to put clear wax on the brush every time you need more dark wax; if you dip it into the original container, the dark wax on your brush will contaminate your entire can of clear wax.
Got all that? I wish I didn’t have to use the word “wax” so many times, but there’s really no way around it. Sorry.
Apply the dark wax to the furniture just as you did the clear. Remember—a little goes a long way.
I apply it in a circular motion, as you can tell from this little stroke that I hadn’t yet blended in. Just keep going in circles until it’s blended in and you can’t see any strokes at all. If there’s a definite linear texture to the piece, I go back over it a few times in the direction of the lines, just to blend it in even more. If you’re not satisfied with the color, add more until you get the antiqued look you want. Some pieces need only a subtle hint of color; others do well with a good amount of antiquing.
**If you apply too much dark wax, dip a separate wax brush or a clean cloth into the clear wax. Brush or rub over the furniture until the dark wax comes off. Keep brushing or rubbing until you’re satisfied with the look. This “repair” technique is why having two brushes is strongly suggested. Use one to apply the dark wax; one to take it off.**
This dresser I painted in the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) color Old White didn’t have much texture, but I did a fair amount of distressing. I wanted just a hint of color over the paint and bare wood.
This farmhouse table was, again, painted in Old White. But it warranted a good deal more dark wax. Can you see the difference? Perhaps it doesn’t show up so well in pictures, but you could definitely see it in person.
You can go as far as you want with the antiquing process. Just be careful not to cross over into making a piece look dingy, which is a lot easier to do with a white basecoat than a darker color.
The dark wax also tones down really bright colors, like ASCP in Antibes Green. It’s blindingly bright alone, but slap some dark wax over it and it completely transforms. Try it; you won’t be disappointed!
A big thanks to Kay for having me over and to all of you for taking the time to read the tutorial! I hope it helps you in your painting adventures!
Hi, my name is Kristin and I'm a Mississippi girl!
Chi-Chi Studio Designs is the culmination of my love for antique hunting, thrift store bargains, and beautiful furniture makeovers. What began simply as a hobby has become a fun, full-fledged business. I am in no way a professional blogger but I do enjoy sharing my painting projects. I hope you have as much fun reading my blog as I do writing it. Welcome to my playground!
Thanks for stoping by my blog! Great info on the AS wax…some day I will buy some.
Desiree
http://www.CamelotArtCreations.blogspot.com
Hi Kristin, Thank you so much for your sweet comments on my blog & for an invitation to stop by. I've really enjoyed my visit to your beautiful blog. What a great design. AND this is a very helpful tutorial for using Annie Sloan wax. {Enquiring minds wanted to know!}
Warmly, Michelle
Do you ever have to reapply? How does the wax hold up to regular cleaning? Or is this a process for that piece that is in the guest room and is rarely used…? I would love to do this to my kitchen table, but sewing, guitar playing, painting, drawing and, of course, eating is the norm at that table
I wouldn't ever reapply dark wax. But for a table that gets a lot of use, I'd put two coats of clear wax on before applying the dark. That way you end up with three coats of protective wax. I have it on the bottom of my dining room table (the top is stained) and have had no problems so far, despite a little monster who likes to bang his chair against the legs again and again!
Thank you for stopping by, Vicky! I hope you'll come visit again, soon!
ok, gotcha! thanks
Hi there! I applied dark wax over Old Ochre paint, and it came out way too dark and streaked. What can I do now? Should I repaint with Old Ochre, or is that even possible over the dark wax?
Cheers!
Cara
Hi Cara! I think you have two options. First, I'd try dipping a rag in some clear wax and rubbing it over a small spot of dark wax, just to see if it brings any of the dark wax off. If Since the dark wax has already dried, it may be a long shot, but it's worth the effort to see if it works! If it doesn't, you can definitely paint over the dark wax again. I've done it several times after some mishaps of my own. Good luck and I hope it works out!!!
THIS was the pinned post that I was looking for
) I asked the person who pinned it to correct the link. Thanks for the tut!!
Sorry about that. My website was recently redesigned, and we’re working on fixing the permalinks so they lead back to the correct post. Thanks for stopping by!
Love your blog!
My question is about buffing.
I let the dark wax cure for 2.5 days, and it wasn’t sticky to the touch or anything (well, maybe a LITTLE bit), so I decided to buff it. Trouble is, a LOT of the dark wax came off with buffing. Granted, I really dug in.
Do you have to buff the piece once you’ve waxed it? If so, how long do you wait?
Thanks Jamie! I’m so glad you stopped by!
I hardly ever buff my pieces anymore. It’s not a necessary step, and too often on flat surfaces (like table tops, etc.) it’s too difficult to get it to look even. I really need to go back and amend this part of the post, because I’ve had more people ask me about that step than any other. Granted, I’m not an expert. I just use the product a lot and have found I like the results without buffing better than those when I do.
Good luck!
Thank you so much for this tutorial, it is exactly what I was looking for today on my very first delve into the dark side-er, wax.
Turned out great!! Will post pics on my blog and link up to yours!!!
Yay! I’m so happy your project turned out the way you wanted! Thank you for stopping by, and I’ll be looking for the photos on your blog!
I have been having trouble with applying dark wax.
So…..
I googled how to do it AND FOUND YOU!!!
I followed your advice, AND IT CAME OUT SO WONDERFUL I can’t get anymore work done because all I do is stand in the doorway and admire my painted piece of furniture.
It looks like it was originally painted in 1920. It REALLY looks like it’s that old.
Of course, part of that is because I AM UNBELIEVABLY TALENTED!!!
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Sweeeeeeeeet! I love it when projects work out! Isn’t it just so satisfying? Happy painting, Betsy!
I used graphite and wanted black so i was told to skip the clear and dive into the dark wax. Well i think i got a little crazy with it! It looks streaky and cloudy in spots. What to do now?? Mineral spirits? Help!!
I’m sorry you’ve hit this bump in the road! Did you mix clear wax with the dark wax as you were putting it on? I suggest a 50-50 ratio. It goes on much smoother and is easier to work with, but it still quite dark. If I were you, I’d go get a cheap piece of wood at Home Depot or Lowes, paint it with graphite, and then practice with the dark wax. I’ve actually never heard to skip the clear wax with graphite. Skipping the layer of clear wax would certainly make the dark wax more difficult to work with. Try to put clear wax first on your test piece, then the dark wax, and see how it looks. If you like it, go back and paint over your piece with graphite, then wax it again. Don’t use mineral spirits! The paint will go right back over the wax, so it shouldn’t be a problem. Let me know if you have any other questions!
HI THERE, IM JUST ABOUT TO PAINT MY DINING ROOM TABLE AND CHAIRS IN ANNIE SLOAN CHALK PAINT (FIRST TIMER) WISH ME LUCK. I AM HOWEVER SANDING THE TOP AND DARK WAXING NO PAINT , SO I NEED TO KNOW DO I STILL HAVE TO CLEAR WAX FIRST AND HOW MANY COATS OF EACH DO I NEED. MANY THANKS GINA X
Hi Gina,
I would definitely still do the clear wax first. It offers more protection and also a barrier between the dark wax and wood. It gives you more flexibility when working with the dark wax, because if you put too much in one area, you can remove some with clear wax and it won’t be “stuck” to the wood. I would do at least a coat of clear wax and a coat of dark. I think it’d be ok (or even good) to do two coats of clear, then a coat of dark. Just wait a day between the each coat of clear wax. GOOD LUCK!
On your lightly dark stained dresser, did you sand/distress some spots after you painted and before the clear wax?
I did distress it, but after I did the clear wax. The clear wax allows you to sand much easier and it also just looks better in general.
Boy I wish I had read your blog before I painted a piece graphite. I too was told to skip the clear wax and go straight to the dark – and of course, wound up with a streaky piece. So disappointing.
The question is: How long must I wait before I repaint the piece again?
I’d wait a day or so. You definitely don’t need the wax to cure since you’re painting over it, so it basically just needs to be dry. I’m sorry you’ve had such a rough time of it. I really hate having to go back and redo a piece. :/ Good luck this time!
Just curious, but can you poly urethane over chalk paint?
I am about to try my hand at annie’s paint and wax. I have a frame on a large print that is too light. I was told to sand the frame lightly and apply dark wax, but after having read your info I realize I should clear wax and then clear and dark wax together. Do you think I still need to sand it before and how long do I wait between wax coats? I do not have the round brushes and live too far away from where I can purchase them, what else would you suggest for applying that would be close? I do plan on purchasing them when I get a chance. Thanks.
You don’t need to sand unless you’re trying to distress it. In that case, you would sand between clear and dark waxes. I don’t like to wait too long after doing the clear wax before I do the dark. I usually just dive right in. Using a soft rag or old t-shirt is fine to apply the clear wax, but the dark wax is much more tricky. You can order the wax brushes online, but if that’s not possible I’d try to find a really old, ratty paint brush. If you use a new one, the wax will simply “paint” on, but an old one with distressed bristles would be easier to work with as far as wax goes. Good luck and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Hi, I am so excited to use this technique. I have a couple questions though…. Do you have to use chalk paint with the wax or if something is already painted (a door) can I just wax over this? (it is painted olive green eggshell)
2. Would I be able to buy this wax at Micheals craft store? As of yet I have not been successful in finding this wax.
Thank-you, L
Lorien,
The wax is made specifically to go with the Chalk Paint, so I’m not sure how it would work with latex. I would paint a scrap piece of wood with the same olive green eggshell paint, clear wax it, and dark wax it. It won’t hurt to try and you can see if you like the effect without risking ruining your door! You cannot buy it at Michael’s, though. Your best bet is to find the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint retailer closest to you. There are plenty of them out there, now! http://www.anniesloan.com/acatalog/North_American_Stockists.html You can also find Fiddes & Sons wax online. Good luck!
I used French linen chalk paint, 2 coats which I let dry completely before applying a coat of clear wax. Then I applied the dark wax for quite a bit of color. I love the look, but the wax is not hardening and scrapes off with a light scratch. It also feels kinda sticky. Doesn’t seem too “protective”. It’s been over 3 days since I finished my project. What did I do wrong? Where do I go from here?
Cindy, it sounds like you simply used too much wax. I would take some automotive sand paper (1000 grit–you can find it at AutoZone, etc.) and go over the surface. It doesn’t take any color away; it simply buffs out the stickiness and may remove just enough wax to allow it to cure faster. The wax takes one month to fully cure, so I imagine when you have put too much on it’d take longer for the stickiness to go away and for it to cure completely. I hope this helps!
I have a smalll walnut bench I am wanting to paint graphite with part of the walnut showing through on the curves. legs, etc. do it looks distressed.
I have painted it graphite. Now, I let it dry. I want it to appear more black. I was told not to apply clear wax but am reading that you do and you mix it 50/50. So dip my brush in clear wax, then dark and apply to piece and continue until entire piece is covered in clear wax?
Do I use a rag to remove any areas that may be too heavy? How long do I let it dry? When do I sand the areas in order to make the edges appear distressed.
Hi Donna,
I’m sorry it’s taken me so long to respond! I had my second little boy on March 24th, so I’m just now getting around to checking my emails and comments. I’ve heard from other sources not to apply the clear wax as well, but it has never worked well for me that way. I always, always, always apply the clear wax before applying the dark. I apply one layer of clear wax (without any dark), then apply the dark wax layer. For the dark wax, I generally do pick up some clear wax on my brush at the same time as the dark, as you said. Use a rag to remove any excess wax. It cures completely in one month, but it will be dry to the touch by the following day. Just don’t put the piece out for heavy use before it’s completely cured.
Sand after the clear wax layer, before the dark wax. Applying the clear wax makes it much easier to sand. Then the wood is exposed, so you’re applying the dark wax to it at the same time as the painted areas. This way, there’s continuity to the look.
I hope this all makes a little bit of sense! Good luck!
HELP! I applied the clear wax over a blue chalk paint then wiped it off prior to applying the dark wax. I got sidetracked and let the dark wax sit 4+ hours now I can’t get any of it off, it is streaky looking and sticky. I want to finish the piece correctly before company arrives in 3 days. Would you suggest reapplying clear wax then wiping it off immediately? Other suggestions. Thanks.
I’m so sorry, Amy! Try to add the clear wax and wipe it off in a small spot, to see if it works. If it doesn’t, the only thing I know to do is to start over. I’m sorry I’m not more help! Good luck!